Whether you're gearing up for your first powerlifting meet or you're an experienced lifter looking to replace/upgrade some equipment you've already got, this guide can point you in the direction of some high quality equipment that will serve you well. But before we get into the list, there are five things we should address:
First, powerlifting is still a fairly niche sport, so to get good equipment you will need to order it online from certain select brands. You can't just go to a local Academy or Dick's Sporting Goods and expect to find anything that is good quality or competition legal - it will just be random cheap workout accessories for dads in their garage, like lifting gloves and velcro belts. You will need to order from brands like Inzer, SBD, A7, Iron Rebel, Titan, Pioneer, EliteFTS, and a few others.
Second, everyone has biases - including me. I haven’t tried every piece of equipment from every brand, so naturally I will gravitate toward recommending the ones I’ve used and liked. While there are likely other great options I’m not aware of, you can trust that everything on this list is high quality. Also, I’m not sponsored or affiliated with any of these companies, so there’s no financial incentive behind these recommendations. My goal is simply to provide a helpful resource for my coaching clients and other athletes looking for quality powerlifting gear.
Third, each powerlifting federation has its own rules, and that includes equipment specifications. Some federations even have an approved gear list, and the equipment must be on that list for you to use it in competition; however, this is becoming less common and most federations just have specifications that the gear needs to meet (such as a max legal thickness and length). Before buying any equipment, even if it is on this recommended list, double check that it meets the criteria of your specific federation! This is your responsibility to check before purchasing anything.
Fourth, I am writing this in October 2025. As with all fields, I am sure that powerlifting equipment will continue to change over the years. Some companies will refine their products and others will no longer be available. So keep that in mind if you are reading this guide multiple years down the road.
Fifth, I tend to be of the "buy once, cry once" opinion. I would rather spend a little extra money to get high quality items that will last for a long time than get something cheaper that will lead to frustration and/or needing to buy replacements. This rule tends to be very true when it comes to powerlifting equipment. For example, I bought my first powerlifting belt from Inzer back in 2017. I used that belt about 3 times per week for 7 years, and guess what - it is still in perfect condition. I just eventually outgrew it because I gained 50 lbs, so I then passed it on to someone I knew who is now using it. That brand of belt is around $130 though, so some people try to go a cheaper route. Unfortunately the cheaper belts don't tend to last - the levers break and the leather get progressively floppier rather than staying stiff. Then you have to buy a replacement, and the total cost of buying two cheap belts often exceeds that of buying a good one the first time.
If you're going to stick with powerlifting long term, it is worth investing in good equipment that will last you for years. That is the type of equipment I will cover in this guide - I will present the best equipment options, not just whatever is cheapest. But obviously these costs add up and we all have budgets, so at the end of the article I include recommendations for purchasing order to help you stagger these costs.
Sections
This guide is intended for raw powerlifting, not single or multi-ply. Equipment is required in order to compete is discussed first, followed by optionally allowed gear. Click the links below to skip to a section.
Conclusion - Purchasing order
Required Equipment
Singlet
A singlet is required to compete in any official powerlifting meet. When it comes to choosing a singlet, the biggest thing to keep in mind is that they are very tight and can be somewhat revealing. This makes color and material important.
In terms of color, black is generally the most flattering and least revealing option. I would personally avoid light colors unless you're looking to make a big statement and are willing to have everything on display for an audience. Another consideration is that black may have a slight competitive advantage in that it will be less visible if your butt comes up during bench press or if you squat slightly high. When in doubt, the judge's call is always supposed to go in favor of the lifter, and having a dark singlet may help it be less obvious if you have any slight mistakes. Lastly, hopefully it never happens to you, but if you were ever to have a code brown and poop yourself during a maximal lift on the platform, you would probably rather be wearing black than a light color.
In terms of material, you want something relatively thick so it isn't see-through when you get to the bottom of a squat or bend over to deadlift. Generally most big name brands are pretty good about this, but where I normally see this being an issue is custom singlets. If you order a fancy or personalized design, many places that make those use thinner materials that are much more see-through.

I always recommend Titan's "Triumph" singlet in matte black, with the double crotch option - especially for guys. It seems to hide the junk in your trunk better than any other singlet I've seen. It is also probably the most thick and supportive singlet that is still legal for raw powerlifting. You can follow the sizing guide and order it off the Titan website.
The only complaint I've ever heard about the Titan Triumph singlet is aesthetic - it is boxy and a bit boring. Generally it still looks good on a male frame, but some women prefer other brands that don't look as rectangular. Virus and A7 are two brands that do a good job at making singlets that are more aesthetically flattering for women, though they aren't quite as thick or supportive as the Titan Triumph.
SBD is another popular brand for singlets, and they're fine. The only big brand I would specifically recommend avoiding for singlets is Inzer. While Inzer makes many great products, unfortunately the singlet isn't one of them. Inzer's "Power Singlet" may be okay, but their "Lifting Singlet" is awful - it just fits weird and doesn't look good on anyone I've ever seen wear one.
Deadlift Socks
Deadlift socks are required for competition. They can also be nice to have for training if you tend to scrape your shins while deadlifting. As per the rules, they must come up to the top of your calf, just below the knee.
The big thing with deadlift socks is that you want a somewhat slick material so the bar slides up them without much friction and without either getting caught or tearing your socks. This is why you should buy socks specifically made for deadlifting rather than just some random soccer or skiing socks that you can also pull up to your knee.
I only have personal experience with a couple of brands. I have had some SBD deadlift socks for years and they've worked great and held up well over time. I would highly recommend these. Here is a link for SBD socks - just make sure you select a pair that is the deadlift style/length so you can use them in competition.
The brand I would recommend avoiding for deadlift socks is Iron Rebel. Iron Rebel has some other good products, but unfortunately their deadlift socks aren't one of them. The Iron Rebel socks are a more traditional, cotton like material and not slick. Mine were torn by the bar while deadlifting and didn't last me more than a few uses, unlike the SBD ones that have lasted for years.
Shoes
While shoes are required at a powerlifting meet, they don't have to be special, lifting-specific shoes. They just can't be anything ridiculous like sandals, crocs, or cleats. If you want to compete in shoes you already own rather than buying some specific for powerlifting, you can.
The big thing to consider when it comes to shoes is that for you to exert force into the floor it first has to transfer through your shoes. To let you efficiently transfer force into the floor, you want a hard sole, not something squishy like running shoes. Harder soles also tend to help with balance. If you plan to lift in shoes you already own rather than buy some specifically for lifting, here are some decent options that you may already have that would be better than running shoes: Converse, Vans, and basketball or wrestling shoes.
If you're looking at buying lifting shoes, you'll see that it is common for them to have a midfoot strap. Having this in addition to the laces really allows you to tighten the shoe to exactly how you want it, and helps to prevent any sort of movement of your foot within the shoe. This is probably especially beneficial on sumo deadlifts where there is a greater degree of rotation and torque. Personally, I love the midfoot strap and want all my lifting shoes to have one.
Some people like squatting in a shoe with an elevated heel. These have a few potential advantages. First, it can help reduce any limitations in terms of ankle mobility because you are essentially starting from negative degrees of ankle dorsiflexion (the shin is still vertical but now the foot is tilted down) and therefore you also finishing in less dorsiflexion than if you had flat shoes. Heeled shoes also shift your balance point slightly backwards. Plus they artificially lengthen your tibia (lower leg) length relative to your femur (upper leg) length which can make for slightly more advantageous leverages.

This doesn't mean heeled shoes are inherently better for squats, though: there are lots of lifters who have been successful with either flats or heels. If you would like to give squatting with an elevated heel a try before committing to buying heeled shoes, you can stand with a pair of 5 lb plates under your heels to get the same effect. This just isn't legal in competition, plus it requires you to walk out more precisely (so you end up in the right spot on top of them) and may be slightly unstable. If you like having your heels elevated when you give this a try, it may be worth investing in getting the actual heeled shoes.
I would definitely not deadlift in heels, though, since the factors that were beneficial for the squat don't apply to the deadlift. Also, when deadlifting, the thicker your shoes are, the further you have to move the bar - you are essentially standing on a deficit. That is why many deadlift shoes have a very thin, minimal sole. So you may want separate shoes for squat and deadlift.
As for bench press, generally people can just use their deadlift shoes for that since we don't need anything special in the bench press besides enough grip that your shoes don't slip while you are using leg drive. This shouldn't happen on the carpeted platform at a meet, but if you are having issues with it in the gym, you can try wiping your shoes with a damp paper towel before each set to get the dust off the bottom, or buy a small carpet square to secure under the bench and put your feet on that.
In terms of recommendations, I will first cover flat shoes (that can be for deadlifts or all purpose powerlifting shoes) then heeled shoes specifically for squatting.
Flat Shoes
When it comes to deadlift shoes, deadlift slippers are really popular (Notorious Lift being the big brand). Deadlift slippers have a minimal sole, good grip, and a midfoot strap like discussed earlier. However, if you're like me and prefer high tops (shoes that cross the ankle) and the feel of a more structured shoe, then the Sabo Deadlift shoes are the best of both worlds. I have had both the classic 1's and the pro. They are very reasonably priced and have lasted me for around three years per pair (wearing them 2-4 times per week in the gym).
In terms of a good all purpose training shoe, "The Total" by Adidas is really solid. It has a slightly thicker, hard sole as opposed to the thin soft sole of a deadlift shoe. I don't like this as much for deadlifting, but I like it more for squatting. So if I were to just have one shoe for all three lifts, I might choose this one.
While I have never tried them personally, I believe another possible good option is Bearfoot "Ursus." They're meant to have a pretty minimal sole and a wide toe box, but unfortunately don't have a midfoot strap.
Heeled Shoes
I have only ever owned one pair of heeled shoes since they've lasted me since 2017 and counting, so I am not familiar with many options. I have the original AdiPower weightlifting shoe. I haven't tried the new, currently available version of these - the AdiPower 3 - but they are likely quite good if they are anything like what I have. You could also consider Sabo's "Powerlift" squat shoes - but again, I don't have any personal experience there.
Underwear
While underwear is optional in most federations, it is required in a few and is always recommended. If you wear underwear under your singlet at a meet, it has to meet certain criteria: the main one being it can't be "supportive" in any way. For most federations that means that the underwear should be legless (it shouldn't cross the hip crease, and boxers or boxer briefs aren't allowed) and it shouldn't be a compression material. For guys, your safest bet is something like Hanes tighty whities. However, if you would like something specifically marketed for powerlifting rather than just buying a cheap pack of undies from your local Walmart, A7 has some "Belvein" meet day briefs. For women, check your federation's rulebook for if and when a bra is required (generally only required if you choose to deadlift without a t-shirt).
Shirt
You must have a short sleeve shirt under your singlet on squat and bench press, although it is optional for deadlifts. There isn't any specific shirt that you need for powerlifting - it just can't be assistive in any way. It can't be excessively tight (which could be seen as supportive) or excessively baggy/large (which can obscure the judging). It also can't have the logo of another powerlifting federation or anything offensive on it, and it can't have any pockets, buttons, zippers, or a reinforced collar or seams. If you bring any normal t-shirt, you'll be fine.
Optional Equipment
Belt
There are two different latch mechanism for belts - a prong or a lever. The lever is significantly easier to use since all you have to do is stick the lever notches in the hole and flip it closed. When you're done, you flip it open and pop it out. The prong is much more difficult to get on and off because it requires you to tug it into position and jam the prong into the hole.
However, the small upside of the prong belt is that it is easy to adjust which hole you are using, so you can change tightness very easily. For a lever belt, if you want to adjust the tightness/hole setting, then you have to unscrew the lever and move it, which takes a lot more effort. However, I rarely need to adjust the tightness of my belt. I have only ever had to change holes a few times over the years, so it isn't a big deal to unscrew the lever and move it on rare occasion if that is necessary. In contrast, having it be easy to get on and off matters every set, so I have a strong preference for a lever belt. I personally would never buy a prong belt. The only situation I can think of where it might make sense to buy prong is if you are sharing a belt with someone.

There are also a few different type of levers, some of which also help remedy the one downside of being more difficult to adjust the tightness.
The traditional lever belt has the lever screw into the tightness hole that you want, and then when you put the belt on you pop it in and pull the lever. Inzer makes some excellent lever belts like this.
The SBD belt is different. Rather than screwing the lever into one fixed tightness, you pop it into the tightness hole that you want each time. So essentially you can easily adjust the size each time you wear it (much like a prong belt), while also having the ease of getting it on and off like a lever belt. However, I think the SBD belt is somewhat overhyped and drastically overpriced.
The third style of lever is the PAL lever from Pioneer. This screws into one tightness hole, like a regular lever; however, the latching mechanism has a few different options to select from when you put it on. These options are in smaller increments than any other latching mechanism offers, so you can make micro adjustments with no effort each time you put it on. You only need to unscrew and adjust it if you want to make a big change from one hole to the next, like changing 1-2 inches in waist size. Pioneer is my number one belt recommendation, and if you can afford the upgrade from the standard lever to the the PAL lever, the ability to make smaller adjustments is worth the extra money.

Wrist Wraps
The two main considerations when it comes to wrist wraps are length and stiffness. If you go too short, it won't let you make enough revolutions to really wrap and support your wrist well, but too long and it just becomes a hassle to put on. I would generally get 60-80cm as the sweet spot for length. 40cm tends to be awkwardly short, but 100cm is getting really long.
In terms of stiffness, more isn't always better. A less stiff wrap will be more flexible and can shape to your wrist and support it well (at least if it isn't super short and you can make multiple revolutions). I use light to moderate stiffness wraps, and as long as I crank them tight while putting them on, I can cast my wrist well and they're pretty locked in. This can easily support 300-400 lb benches - you don't need super stiff wraps to handle that.
One additional, small factor is the thumb loops. Most wrist wraps will have a thumb loop that you can either wear while wrapping (but you have to take the loop off before going out on the platform at a meet) or that you can pinch in your hand while wrapping. Most good wrist wraps will be directional, meaning the two wraps in the pair have the thumb loops on different sides. Here's a video example of wrist wrap directionality. However, some cheap wrist wraps are identical and have the thumb loops on the same side, which may be a downside if you are particular about how you apply your wraps. In contrast, the A7 wrist wraps have thumb loops on both sides, so both warps in the pair are ambidextrous. Lastly, a small minority of wrist wraps have a different style of loop - rather than a traditional thumb loop they have what is called a "belt loop strap" (shown below). The belt loop strap allows you the option to pinch it or tuck it over your thumb, like a traditional thumb loop, but you can also pull one end of the wrap through this loop to secure the wrap on your wrist, then wrap from there. Personally I have tried this method with the Inzer Gripper Wrist Wraps, but I prefer holding a traditional thumb loop since I can pull more tension and get the wrap exactly where and how tight I want it better.

Personally I've used the EliteFTS "Normal Light Wrist Wraps" for years and like them well. The velcro wore out after 2-3 years and I needed to replace them, but that is a good duration given the relatively low price point. I've also briefly tried the A7 wrist wraps (mids stiffness) and they were also fine.
The only pair I've tried and didn't really like was the Inzer Gripper Wrist Wraps. The grippy interior lining didn't really add anything for me and neither did the belt loop strap - I'd rather just have thumb loops.
Knee Sleeves
When it comes to knee sleeves, the big variable is stiffness. Most knee sleeves used to be relatively soft and floppy and they primarily just provided some compression and warmth, but around 2021 there was an innovation in terms of making them significantly stiffer and more assistive. The old soft sleeves were more for comfort than anything, but might've added 5-10 lbs on your squat. The new stiffer sleeves may add around 10-20 lbs to your squat compared to bare knees.
The stiff knee sleeves are more expensive, so a lot of the brands making them have also started offering a more cylindrical, straight cut version, since it is cheaper to manufacture and can be sold at a lower price point. However, I would not recommend buying these! If you can, spend the little bit of extra money to get the hourglass, curved cut version instead. Stiff sleeves are significantly hard to get on and off, and the curved design helps with this problem significantly. It means that the sleeves can hug the knee while flaring out to make room for you quads and calves. You want to look for terms like "hourglass" or "contour" and avoid the ones that are described as "conical" or "cone".
My favorite stiff sleeve is Inzer's ErgoPro Knee Sleeves. Some other similar options are Iron Rebel's PR contour knee sleeves or A7's hourglass knee sleeves in the "Rigor Mortis" stiffness. Pioneer also makes some stiff knee sleeves, and they are a bit cheaper than the rest of these, but they aren't as contoured so they tend to not hug the knee as well and then are really tight at the base of the quad. Again, I would recommend the Inzer ErgoPro. I've been using a pair for 2-3 years and they are still in great condition, and they are much easier to get on and off than most other stiff sleeves brands because of their shape.
If for some reason you don't want the more assistive, stiff knee sleeves, then SBD's knee sleeves are a nice happy medium. They are definitely not as stiff and assistive as the others listed above, but they aren't completely soft and floppy either. This may be a good option for really large individuals (who need massive sizes, like 3XL+) since slightly softer sleeves can be easier to get on and off, and often that gets challenging for really large lifters.
Knee Wraps* (only if classic raw)
Some federations offer a classic raw division (raw with knee wraps rather than knee sleeves). I wouldn't recommend knee wraps unless you already have about 3-5 years of experience competing and a good baseline of technique and strength. However, if you have those things, are interested in lifting more weight, are willing to deal with some discomfort, and can afford to spend more time in the gym fiddling with equipment, then knee wraps might be worth a shot. When used well they can add around 30-60 lbs to your squat, which is far more than knee sleeves ever could.
I have only done two meets in wraps and have only used two different pairs, so I am far from a expert on knee wraps. There are lots of different options and styles out there, as well as multiple ways to apply them. However, I have used two of the most popular wraps for beginners and here's my thoughts.
The Inzer Gripper Knee Wraps are often recommended for people new to wraps because the grippy inner lining is meant to help keep them from slipping and make them easier to apply. I didn't necessarily find this to be true though. The other pair of wraps I've used, the EliteFTS Krait Knee Wraps, don't seem to slip on me much at all either. If anything, the rubber lining on the Inzer Grippers seems to just make them much more uncomfortable to squat in since it seems to pull on the skin more. Either of these wraps would probably work pretty well for you, but I prefer the EliteFTS Krait Knee Wraps because they're more comfortable to squat in and I can't tell much if any difference between the two brands in terms of how much assistance I get in the lift.
If you plan to compete in knee wraps, I would also recommend buying 2-3 identical pairs (once you've found a style you like). This is massively helpful because you can have a backup pair pre-rolled on standby - in case you drop one while trying to wrap your knees. It also makes meet day way easier than if you have to reroll your singular pair between every attempt.
Elbow Sleeves* (squat and deadlift only)
As far as I know there is not a single powerlifting federation that allows elbow sleeves on the bench press - the one lift where it would actually help. However, most federations allow you to wear them for comfort during the squat or deadlift. Quite frankly though, I wouldn't bother. If you feel the need for elbow sleeves on the squat because of arm pain, I can almost guarantee the cause of the arm pain is poor positioning of the bar on your back, a lack of creating proper tension in the upper back, and/or poor shoulder mobility that could be improved with a good warmup. Addressing this actual root cause is way more worthwhile than slapping on some elbow sleeves and hoping that will help. There are extremely few - if any - people who I would ever recommend get elbow sleeves, so I won't bother including any brand suggestions. Save your money and put it towards something more useful, like a coach who can help you fix the root cause of your arm pain.
Conclusion
Because all this equipment is expensive, most people will need to stagger these purchases rather than getting them all at once, so something else to consider is the purchasing order.
If you have a meet coming up soon, then obviously buy the required equipment (singlet and deadlift socks) before the meet. If you can also afford some optional gear, I would probably prioritize getting a belt (since it can drastically impact both your squat and deadlift) over wrist wraps and knee sleeves (that only really impact one lift each).
If you have some time before your next meet, it may be worth getting some of the optional equipment first, since having a belt, sleeves, and/or wraps will improve your training whereas the singlet won't really add anything for you. (Again, I would prioritize the belt over knee sleeves or wrist wraps since it dramatically impacts two lifts rather than just one.) Just make sure you get the singlet and socks by meet day.
Whenever you're buying your gear, remember to check your powerlifting federation's equipment specifications before purchasing anything to make sure what you're planning to buy will be legal in your competition.
If you found this guide helpful and want to be notified when I publish future articles, you can subscribe to the Premier newsletter by clicking here. Also, if you could use some help preparing for your next meet from a training perspective, you can click here to learn more about my coaching services, or reach out and I'd be happy to set up a call and chat with you about it.
Best,
Michael Elrod-Erickson
Founder and Head Coach, Premier Power & Performance